Instructional Videos 1) Kit Assemblies 2) Car Installation -
Discussions / Articles - Demagnetizing - Polishing
TInstructional Videos - Cell and Charging Vat Assembly
Car Installation Videos
Land Rover Discovery 2 - 2001
This Video Contains instructions on how to assemble the Moe-Joe Cell and Install into the Car via VACUUM intake, and also demonstrates how to get under the car and locate the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. (note: in this video, we chose a method we are no longer employing the use of - We hooked the two rear O2 sensors together and then we also hooked up the front two O2 sensors together - Now, we are only taking the signal wire from the front O2 sensors and we are using each front O2 sensor individually to send to the O2 sensor wires in the Cell Guardian.
Moe-Joe Cell Car Installation in Land Rover - Instructional Video |
Honda Accord 2001
This short video demonstrates a Moe-Joe cell installed in a 2001 Honda Accord right in between the radiator fans and the exhaust. The cell stayed cool to the touch.
Note: I say in the end of the video - the only oxygen sensor it has - was my mistake - there is another one right above where the exhaust is - found it just after shooting this video. You can see it just to the left of the aluminum cover over the top of the exhaust.
Moe-Joe Cell Car Installation in Honda Accord 2001 - Instructional Video
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Dealing with Low Levels of Magnetism in the Steel
With the new design, one of the hemispheres has a lip rolled in. This does induce a little magnetism in the steel, because the stainless steel is being cold worked. I personally do not feel it affects the performance of the cell very much. 95% of the surface area of the hemispheres are almost completely non-magnetic. And, if you will watch the videos of the newest improved design, you will see arriving at stage 3 is not a problem. However, if you adamantly want completely non-magnetic steel, then here are a couple of things you can do:
Heat Treating
From Alex Schiffer's Experimenter's Guide to the Joe Cell
"Regarding heat treating, as the Curie point of most stainless steel is 800F and higher, our heat treatment must exceed this temperature. Two methods that work are:
Local advice from a Melbourne heat treatment operator: he suggests to place the material in a vacuum oven at 1050 C for 30 mins. It is then quenched in Nitrogen gas to cool back to atmospheric temperature over a relatively short time. The final finish is almost like chrome.
0 2 ‑ TM Technology, suggest 80OF to 120OF for V2 to 2 hours
http://www.tinmantech/html/faq‑stainless‑working‑joe‑c.html"
Moshe: I was told that the temperature for heat treating should be between 700 - 800 o Celsius - and to bring the metal up to that temperature slowly - over 1 hour, and then bring down very slowly for 8-12 hours. IMPORTANT - this must be done in a special Vacuum kiln and NOT in a regular oven. Vacuum is important.
AC Demagnetizing
At many "Tool and Die shops" you can ask for an AC Demagnetizing unit and have them zap your hemispheres with the unit. Here is an URL with an example of such a device -
http://www.gaussbusters.com/adgSpec.html
Have any other techniques for demagnetizing that you know work? Please share them with us
To Polish or Not to Polish?
Truth is, polishing looks nicer. But does it help the cells perform any better? Answer - I am not convinced. I think the polishing makes the cells less responsive to the current - the cells respond slower. Perhaps it is because we see less surface area to react with the water. The question remains whether or not this is also true for using high voltage with little no current and a high frequency - perhaps in that case the polished surfaces will respond better to the High Voltage and frequency. It is difficult to say. After having polished my cells, I am still undecided, so it is really the choice of the experimenter It is possible that polishing is better for high voltage applications with frequency, than with the standard DC voltage applied with current.
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