Setting up Your Charging Kit - Setting up Your Car Kit - Charging Videos - Charging Methods
NOTE - You do not need a charging kit to get your Moe-Joe working in your car. The charging kit helps, yes, and it can help prepare the water, charge it up and help clean out impurities in the water. However, some people are getting just the car kits, sealing them up and filling them with water, (or other methods here to charge your car kit without a water charging kit ) (ideally, water that has been prepped in some way - water charging kit, water vortexer, or ring generator) and then charging with a low voltage, low amperage so as to not create scum - you do not want scum in the car kit at all (that is what the charging kit aims to completely remove) - the most suggested charging method now is Pepi's method. For all assembly methods, polishing is recommended.
TSetting up Your Charging Kit
Charging Videos
This is the most charged water ever!
Note - If you are not using a bismuth core then set up your cell as follows (this method will require extra spacers for the extra nuts needed, or the extra nuts will be supplied with your kit if you did not purchase a bismuth core) -
WATER-ONLY CORE METHOD of THE MOE-JOE CELL ASSEMBLY
Click here to watch videos of these assemblies -
Part 1 - Part 2
PART A ) For the bottom half of the Moe Joe cell - take a 2" hemisphere and put a rod through the centre hole so that the rod is just sticking into the inner part of the 2" sphere. Place a NYLON nut onto the small portion sticking into the 2" and then place a stainless steel nut on the outside, and screw down and then secure. Assemble the rest of the 3", 4", and 5" and then tighten the outer 5" nut to the inner 2" nut.
PART B) Repeat with the other half - Use the nylon bolt this time and use a nylon nut inside and outside the 2"securing the nylon bolt onto the 2" - then assemble the 3", 4", and 5" and tighten the outer 5" nut with the inner 2" nut.
PART C ) Now Place the bottom half of the cell, which should have a nice sized length of stainless steel bolt coming through the bottom - place this through the hole in the bottom of your glass jar. Use goop or silicon gel or some sealant at the bottom and place a washer and then another nut on the outside of the glass jar, and tighten the nut both on the outside and the inside of the 2" - this will secure the entire half assembly very tightly with the glass jar. Then take your upper half of the cell and slot it onto the lower half.
This is all that is needed -no glueing or securing of the two halves is needed because we are only using this for the charging process.
Setting up Your Car Kit (for prepping water and for installation in car)
(note - this is no longer the recommended approach - it is just for experimental purposes, as it emulates the Joe cell more - but the power of the Moe-Joe cell lives in its completed SPHERICAL FORM)
Method 1 (for vacuum or air intake without bismuth core) - HALF-CELL approach - Assemble the bottom half of a cell using PART A the method right above called Water-Only Core Method - When you tighten the nut on the outside of the 5" with the nut on the inside of the 2" make certain that you use goop or silicon gel or some sealant to seal off the hole and the nut and bolt on the outside of the 5" since this will be serving as our car kit and must be sealed. You should use the bottom 5" with the lip around the equator and the 3/8" on the bottom centre. Now we have half a cell assembled. Take only the upper 5" which has the larger hole on the top and the hole on the side for the +ve electricity bolt and connect the +ve bolt and an aluminum tube connector at this point if you are using one. Wait until the sealant / goop used dries and the connector is solidly attached. Once it is dried and hardened, place the upper 5" hemisphere over the lower half assembled cell and seal around the equator with goop, silicon gel, or sikaflex, or your favourite sealant. Then, when you fill the cell, fill up the cell only halfway, so that the water is slightly, very slightly only, below the tops of the hemispheres. This is the best method for assembly of the cell using the vacuum or air intake method. If you are using a bismuth core with this method, make sure you remove the nylon bolt and just use the stainless bolt - then make sure the bismuth core is centered in the center of the hemisphere, as if it would be centred in the midth of the 2" sphere if it was a completed sphere. Then secure the nylon nut on the inside of the 2" and the stainless nut on the outside of the 2".
Now you can charge your car kit outside of the car following Pepi's method or other charging methods below. Make sure not to overcharge, as you will mess up the cell and have to take it apart, clean it and start over. Less is more in this case.
Method 2 (for blind plug only with or without bismuth core) - WHOLE CELL APPROACH - Without the bismuth core - assemble the cell exactly as per the instructions above following the Water-Only Core Method of the Moe-Joe Assembly - It is recommended that you use TWO stainless steel bolts (which requires the Xtra spacers option) instead of using the nylon bolt, so that the negative electricity can be brought through the bottom of the cell from the negative of the battery, and also, so that the bolt coming up from the 2" and through the top of the cell can have a wire placed on it, that will be carried along the inside of the transfer tube and place in direct contact with the negatively grounded engine. Make sure that when you form the bottom half of the cell, you use goop / silicon gel / some sealant to seal the bottom of the cell off, and secure the outer nut on the 5" with the inner nut on the 2". Once you get the two hemispheres fully asssembled, place them together, slot firmly in place, and then use goop / silicon gel / sealant around the equator - this will hold the two hemispheres together very firmly. Make sure, when using the blind plug method - that before sealing the two hemispheres together, that the wire being transferred to the engine block / head, is well fastened and shrinkwrapped or sealed to the cathode bolt coming up through the whole in the upper 5" and that the aluminum connector is nicely fastened to the top hole on the upper 5". Make sure to measure the distance from where the cell will be installed to the engine block where you will install the blind plug - or you can use extra wire and cut it to measure later, but the transfer tube must be measured precisely.
Fill the cell all the way up to the top.
Now you can charge your car kit outside of the car following Pepi's method or other charging methods below. The aluminum connector, being sealed to the top, provides a recepticle at the top for any water that overflows from the cell during charging due to displacement of the water from gas production. Make sure not to overcharge, as you will mess up the cell and have to take it apart, clean it and start over. Less is more in this case.
The Process of ELECTRICALLY Charging Your Moe-Joe cell
Method 1 - Conventional DC charging with VARIAC and bridge rectifyer
Method 2 - Pepe's circuit and charging method
Method 3 - Chris' Circuit
Method 1 - Conventional DC charging with VARIAC and bridge rectifyer
i) Get a VARIAC at your local electronics parts store - Radioshack won't do the trick. You will need a more specialized electronics store. Cost between $60 - 120 USD.
Examples of different Variacs - they alter the Voltage between 0-130 VAC (in North America)
ii) a) Get a three pronger plug from your electronics store. b) Connect the plug to a BRIDGE RECTIFIER (BR) - also obtained from a specialized electronic parts store. Get the value of at least 3 amps on the BR and at least 200 Volts.
Image of a Bridge Rectifier
c) You connect the hot AC wire from the plug to one of the sides of the BR that indicates AC and the neutral plug on the wire to the other side of he BR that indicates AC. NOTE: it does NOT matter whether you put the neutral or HOT AC wire to which side of the BR's AC side - because they are both alternating, so it doesn't matter.
Note: Where it says AC is where one of the wires of the plug goes, and the other opposite cross corner, (ie top left) would be where the other AC wire goes from the plug.
d) Now, get yourself two good lengths of wire in a nice thick gauge - I say minimum of 18 AWG gauge. That is a good gauge to work with here. 20 AWG is getting a little flimsy, but can work as well, but it's the limit. Now, where it indicates + on the BR is where you will connect your wire that will go to the OUTSIDE Sphere of your Moe-Joe cell. The minus is situated on the opposite cross corner, therefore, in this image, it would be the back right corner. Connext a nice long length of wire to this -ve corner, and this wire will then be brought to the Cathode bolt that comes out of the BOTTOM of the cell and that feeds up to the innermost 2" sphere, bringing the -ve electricity.
Note: It is good to have the VARIAC and BR at least 5-10 feet away from the Moe-Joe cell, so make the wires nice and long.
Note: I suggest putting a Capacitor of 450 uF (microfarads) and rated for at least 200 Volts in Parallel across the +ve and -ve wire. This means that the two arms of the Capacitor reach ACROSS the +ve wire and the -ve wire and are connected that way, with the +ve side of the Capacitor on the +ve wire, and the -ve part of the Capacitor on the negative wire.
note: VARIAC is plugged into wall, and another plug leaves VARIAC from the front (usually) connecting to the BR.
iii) a) Install a Multimeter set to measure CURRENT in series on the +ve line (can be -ve too). Install the Moe-Joe in a charging VAT as per the following video example - Moe-Joe cell charging Kit Assembly into glass jar mounting for Kit 1 and 2 -
b) Fill up the VAT with fresh, clean, LIVE water, (if possible - though some bottled waters will do well - Whole Foods sells a decent spring water for 99c / gallon) - Live clean water from a source or a well is ideal. Fill the VAT so that at least 1.5" of water is above the top of the 5" outer Moe-Joe sphere.
c) Turn on the VARIAC so that the current begins flowing. Adjust the VOLTAGE on the VARIAC to around 60-80 volts AC, so that the current reads close to 1 AMP. Charge for 1-3 minutes 4-6 times /day until the water gets filled with a brownish, orangy fluffy "scum." then filter the water, using 2 Blue Shop towels (available at Home Depot)
- Rinse the cell thoroughly with tap water at least 2-3 times by filling up the VAT and then pouring it out and letting it drip as much as possible. Refill the vat and repeat charging process. Do not disassemble the cell. If it is left intact, it will begin to accumulate a charge. If disassembled, you will go back to square 1.
Note: As you continue to charge and filter, bubbles will begin to form and stay on the surface. When these bubbles become a foam, and there is a "smokestacking" flow of bubbles out of the two top holes of the moe-joe, you're getting good and charged water. You will notice, after 2-3 filtrations, the water will be like cafe latte.
Note: NEVER overcharge, so be aware not to leave the cell charging unobserved. I have done it at least 5 times, where i forgor i was charging and left it on overnight or for hours and hours, and the cell was basically damaged, and twice it was ruined - never the same.
Note: Once the water is retaining a nice charge, and there is a residual voltage across the cell of at least 1 - 1.5 volts for at least 12 hours, you're ready for that water to be installed into the Car Cell and into the car.
Method 2 - Pepe's circuit and charging method
This is Pepe's Circuit, hand-drawn by Pepe himself. It works very well, and works slowly, allowing for the water to gain full charge and the metal in the cell to slowly build up its residual voltage. This method of charging is highly recommended.
Explanation of Diagram -
On the far left, you have a step-down transformer - from your input voltage (usually 110 Volts in USA, 220 V in Europe) to 12 V - which has 2 ends of 6 volts each. You place your two 6 volt leads across a bridge rectifier (BR), and then the +ve goes straight to the +ve of the Cell, and the negative from the BR goes straight to the negative of the Cell.
Pepe's portion of the circuit - after the +ve and -ve come off the BR, you have a portion which works as follows -
From the negative to the positive, in Parallel -
you have a Coil which is very easy to make - you wrap 11 turns of a 21 SWG gauage wire, around a pencil - then you take one of the arms of this coil and connect it to the rear of DIODE valued 1N5408 (which is rated at 3A 800 V - this is a good value, but doesn't need to be this high. It's a diode, so its purpose is to block the flow in one direction) - the cathode is pointing away from the negative and towards the positive and then connects with the tail end, or the anode of a 12V - 1Watt Zener diode, whose cathode is pointing toward the +ve lead and connects with a 1.2 Ohm ceramic resistor which is connected to the +ve lead. (E means Ohms in Europe apparently)
Charging Times with Pepe's Circuit
Method 1 -RECOMMENDED - Charge for 1 minute every 10 minutes for a total of NINE times. Then wait for 24 hours and repeat again. Do this 3 days in a row and then leave it for 1, 2, 3 days. Check your residual voltages each day. Also, check the energy field around the Moe-Joe. You will see a very powerful field building up. If you find the Moe-Joe keeps losing its residual voltage, charge again 1 minute and then leave it. Once the cell is installed in the car, you can use this method, charging only for 1 minute / day, to keep the charge on the cell. Do not charge with the car battery's positive, and do not leave the Positive of the car battery connected across the cell.
Method 2 - Charge for 12 hours then off for 12 hours. Charge for another 12 hours. Off for 12 hours. Do this, and filter if necessary, (though it shouldn't be necessary) until you see the water is darkening in colour - more golden yellow, and you have 1.2 - 1.5 residual voltage across the cell after not charging for 12 hours. Once you have around 1.5 residual volts across the cell (measured with a voltmeter/ multimeter across the positive and negative on the cell alone) after 12 hours, then leave the cell and do not charge for 48 hours. Then charge just for 20 minutes, and you're ready for car installation.
Note1: Leave the negative still on - so, have Pepe's circuit plugged in to the wall with a Power cord, which is going to the Primary input of the 12 V transformer, and just put a switch on the +ve lead from the BR to the cell - this way, the negative will still flow from the Earth ground and the +ve will be received from the atmosphere.
Note2: If you are using the charging kit and car kit setup, make sure to acclimatize the Car kit also with the charging kit and place it in its own container and put the charge on it until you see a build up of residual voltage. Once it reaches around 1.5 volts, it should be ready for car installation.
Note3: Once in the car, only the -ve is plugged in to the Battery -ve. No positive battery connection. It is possible, therefore, to bring Pepe's circuit to the car, and charge for a few minutes to keep residual voltage high.
Note4: Pepe suggests vacuum air intake for this operation.
Method 3 - Chris' Circuit
coming soon
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